Reference Material 

Over the years, I have read some real interesting and enlightening books that I have learned from and enjoyed, and in some cases applied to the breeding and care of my dogs. They are the following;

• Bringing Up A Bullmastiff Puppy ……..by Mona Lindau-Webb, first book in an excellent series on Bullmastiff
  and the new puppy owner. Mona Webb, Alpha Dog Training (310) 559-2321 tikiwiki@ibm.net
• The Bullmastiff (A Handbook)……by Clifford Hubbarb
• The Mastiff and Bullmastiff Handbook…… by Douglas B. Oliff
• Bullmastiff, The Peerless Protector …….by Gerry Roach & Jack Shastid
• The Bullmastiff Today …….by Lynn Pratt
• The Bullmastiff, A Breeders Guide ……by David Hancock $25 can also be ordered through ABA Boutique
• The Bullmastiff……by Eric Makins
• The Bullmastiff Fanciers Manual……by Bill Walkey
• Everyone’s Guide to the Bullmastiff……by Carol Beans, (714)544-1824 anakari@aol.com
• The Bullmastiff: Handbook of the American Bullmastiff Association
• The Bullmastiff as I know it ……by Arthur Craven
• The American Bullmastiff Assoc. Register of Merit..by the American Bullmastiff Association (ABA)
• Dog Eat Dog……by Stern & Stern
• Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders……by Malcolm B. Willis.
• Successful Dog Breeding ……by Walkowicz & Wilcox
• The New Art of Breeding Better Dogs……by Onstott
• Genetics: The Serious Breeder ……by Weitzman
• Canine Reproduction: a Breeders guide ……by Phyliss a Holst MS, DVM
• Dog Locomotion and Gait Analysis……by Brown
• Mother Knows Best ..... Carol Lea Benjamin
• Dog Steps ……by Page and Elliott
• The Dynamics of Canine Gait, A Study of Motion……by Leon Hollenbeck
• The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior ……by Clarence Pfaffenberger
• Behaviour Problems In dogs……by William Campbell
• Dog Language: an encyclopedia of Canine Behaviour……by Abrantes
• Humans and Domestic Dogs.......by Donaldson
• Dominant Dog (Video)......by Rogerson
• Dr. Pitcairns Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats ......by Pitcairn & Pitcairn
• The Natural Remedy Book for Dogs & Cats......by Diane Stein
• Homeopathic first Aid Treatment for Pets......by Francis Hunter
• The Holistic Guide for A Healthy Dog……by Volhard & Brown
• The Doctors Book of Home Remedies for Dogs & Cats ……by Prevention Magazine
• Dog Owners’s Home Veterinary Handbook……by Carlson & Giffon
• The Illustrated Veterinary Guide for Dogs, Cats, Birds and Exotic Pets......by Pinney
• Dog Showing For Beginners……by Hall
• Canine Good Citizen ……by Jack & Wendy Volhard
• Culture Clash: A revolutionary New Way of Understanding the Relationship Between Humans & Domestic
   Dogs……by Donaldson
• A Dog & A Dolphin ……by Karen Pryor
• Clicker Magic (Video) ……by Karen Pryor
• Don’t Shoot The Dog……by Karen Pryor

Magazines:

• The Bullmastiff Bulletin - Journal of the American Bullmastiff Association Published by the ABA 3 times
   yearly. email: ABABull@aol.com
• The Bullmastiff Annual: Published annually ......by Hoflin Publishing
• Video:**AKC Video of the Bullmastiff Standard - The American Kennel Club,
   Book & Video dept.(919)233-9767

Internet Mailing Lists:

• Bullmastiff list provided by Hoflin publishing ** subscribe/unsubscribe from http://www.hoflin.com
   (select resources, then dog lists)**
• The Bullmastiff Fanciers List: BULLMASTIFF-L@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM

The Gentle Guardian 

By: Conie R. Robinson

The Gentle Guardian is possibly the most appropriate description one could give to the Bullmastiff. This relatively little know breed of dog maybe the best choice for the family that wants good dependable protection for the family members and their home. Currently there are many breeds of dogs that are very popular as watchdogs, however the majority of these breeds are used for home protection or watchdogs because they are vicious by nature. The problem with this type of dog is that he doesn't only attack burglars, thieves ect. but is also likely to bite friends of the family or relatives or even children that may come into the yard, because he is just plain vicious or possibly a fear biter.

This is where the Bullmastiff differs from the most of the other breeds. The Bullmastiff is a very gentle dog by nature, his goal in life being to please his master and family, and he becomes devoted to them and will protect the family and the property if he feels there is a genuine need for his intervention.

The Bullmastiff will accept and lavish all the petting of neighborhood children and friends of the family he can get however if his master or family shows genuine apprehension or is actually attacked, the Bullmastiff will defend them not because he is vicious but because he devoted to them and this protective instinct is born in him and requires no special training.

Some Bullmastiffs have been trained to attack on command as can many breeds of dog if trained correctly, however many people familiar with dogs trained to attack will tell you that the only place for such dogs is in the hands of expert handler and has no place in the hands of an ordinary citizen as there have been to many tragedies caused by attack trained dogs getting into the wrong hands or getting out of control.

The Bullmastiff has been recognized as a true breed for a relatively short time as compared to some of the other breeds of dogs and was first accepted for registration in England where the breed originated in 1924 and was accepted for registration by the American Kennel Club in 1933. This basic type or breed of dog has been in existence for possibly several hundred years in England according to some dogs historians, they were called by different names during different periods of time, and early reference to dogs called "Mongrel Mastiffs", "Small Mastiffs", "Strong Bulldogs" ect, were believed to refer to this basic breed.

Finally in the mid-nineteenth century the crossing of the large Mastiff and the early day Bulldogs which little resemble today's Bulldogs, became quite popular with Gamekeepers that were charged with keeping down poaching on game preserves and large estates in England. The dog created by crossing the two breeds seemed ideal for the requirements of the Gamekeepers as they wished to have a dog that would protect them from the poachers who often ambushed and killed the Gamekeepers if given a chance.

As the poachers usually worked at night it was only natural that a good dog would be of great assistance. The dogs resulting from the Bulldog and Mastiff cross resulted in an active but compact and powerful dog, large enough to down the poacher and hold him to allow the Gamekeeper to take him into custody. These dogs inherited the best characteristics of the two breeds it originated from and came up with some qualities not possessed by either of its parent breeds.

This Bulldog and Mastiff crosses became so popular as helpers of the Gamekeepers that they were commonly known for many years as the "GAMEKEEPERS NIGHT DOGS". There were many incidents recorded during this era telling of these "Keepers Night Dogs" being able to take armed men down and holding them, some of these incidents were in the Gamekeepers actuak work, while other such incidents took place at exhibitions to demonstrate the qualities of the dogs produced by the various breeders of the day. During some of the exhibitions and even on some occasions in the field, the dogs were called upon to down armed men while muzzled and were able to do so, which gives some idea of the strength and determination these dogs possessed when aroused. Many of the gamekeepers gave their dogs credit for saving their lives. After the passing of this era the breed has been used mostly as a watchdog and companion dog in many countries and became quite popular in Africa during the early 1950's due to the Mau Mau uprisings and were imported to that continent by the white settlers who found them not only good for protection against the Mau Mau but also beneficial in protecting livestock from predators such as lynx, leopard, baboons and other such animals.

Bullmastiffs are good all around dogs and enjoy hunting and other outdoor activities their master may pursue as they are a very versatile breed of dog.

The Bullmastiff is an upper medium size dog not a giant breed. Most Bullmastiffs will stand from 24 to 27 inches at height at the shoulder and weigh from 90 to 130 pounds when mature. The dogs have a heavy bone structure and are very muscular in build and are heavy for their size as they are compactly built. A Bullmastiff weighing 130 pounds will appear to be a much smaller dog than most breeds in this same weight class. Bullmastiffs may be any shade of fawn or brindle, with fawns being more popular today, however the brindles were much more in demand in the old gamekeeper days as they were impossible to see after dark as the brindle coloring has a camouflage effect after dark and currently somewhat rare brindles seem to be making a comeback.

The Bullmastiff's ears are not cropped, his tail is not docked and he has a short coat so he requires no special grooming or preparation as there is nothing artificial or false in his makeup which is quite a contrast to many other more popular breeds that do receive various forms of surgery or special trimming or grooming to look their best, and looks are changed in order to allow them to do well at the dog shows. In the Bullmastiff breed, performance and soundness are considered more important than any racy appearance.

Ideally a person that purchases a Bullmastiff should have a fenced yard, and a person should not get a Bullmastiff unless he wants a dog to take in just like another member of the family, as the Bullmastiff responds best to this type of treatment.

Young Bullmastiffs should be allowed to socialize with friendly dogs and other pets at an early age and should never be taken around other dogs that will starting fights as after a few such encounters the Bullmastiff is likely to find out how tough he really is and start to enjoy fighting, (people often laugh at a scrappy small dog such as a terrier or the like, however when you have a dog with the power of a Bullmastiff that have been known to kill baboons and other large predators single-handed, it's not laughing matter to have him turned into a habitual fighter) it is therefore very important to get the Bullmastiff socialized with friendly dogs at an early age, if so conditioned the Bullmastiff is as tractable on neutral territory as any other breed, but they usually resent strange dogs coming into their home or yard as they figure this as their personal territory.

As with many fairly large dogs, it's best to start obedience training at an early age. The Bullmastiff is quick to learn and his main desire is to please his master and praise coupled with firmness will give you a well disciplined dog if you are consistent in your application of both.

Bullmastiffs often do not gain their full confidence until they are about 2 years old so the owner should not expect him to really come into his own until he reaches this age. After he matures he is one of the best if not the best watchdog available if a situation arises that requires his intervention.

Many people who see a Bullmastiff playing with children or other friendly persons just cannot believe this breed can be anything but friendly, however if the need arises the Bullmastiff can quickly take on about a 180 degree change in his personality and can change from friendly clown into the most determined attack dog imaginable, and punishment that would case some of the other breeds of dogs (that are famous for their viciousness) to let out a yelp and run for cover would just anger a Bullmastiff to a greater degree as he will fight any man or animal unto his death if necessay, to protect his master to whom he is so devoted.

Because this breed is so friendly and stable but brave and powerful if the need arises, he may be the dog that is best suited in today's society to help cut down on the soaring crime rates especially assault cases, without having to read about so many children having half their faces bitten off by vicious watchdogs in newspapers.

This breed like any breed is not a miracle dog and will certainly not fill the requirements of every household, however a family that really likes and understands dogs and wishes a steady dependable companion and have room for an upper medium size dog may wish to check into the Bullmastiff, The Gentle Guardian.

The Large Dog and Children

(Author Unknown)

1. Do not allow the child, however small to, tease the dog either physically or verbally. The child who shrieks and leaps incessantly beside a nervous puppy may drive him to snap out in fear as quickly as the child who grabs it's tail or sits on it. If a child is persistent, remove him. Do not even once allow him to continue.

2. Do not let a small child to pick up or carry a puppy. Puppies, like babies are afraid of falling. They will often squirm and fight to free themselves. If successful, they may break a leg. (Vet bills are not cheap.) If panicked they may even bite. Remember, in this case, it is not the puppies fault, but yours for allowing the situation to progress to the point where the puppy can no longer cope with it. Encourage the child to get down on the puppies level, ie.,the floor for fun and games. They can play all they like without either one getting hurt and the puppy is free to move away when he has had enough. A child may not realize the fact that he has inadvertently cornered the pup and set in motion a series of instinctive behavior mechanisms.

3. Do not expect the pup to absorb endless punishment in the form of constant noise or teasing. He will learn to defend himself unless he has some place to go such as a crate, bed, corner, or run where he can go when he does not want to be disturbed. Make certain that everyone understands that he is not to be disturbed there, and then make sure that he is not. He will come back out when he is ready to.

4. Do not leave your dog unattended in the yard with small children no matter how trustworthy you may think your dog is. Although Bullmastiffs enjoy children more so than many other breeds, they are not a miracle dog and must be treated the same as any other large dog when around children. A dog may not mean to hurt a child, yet it usually seems to turn out the other way.

5. Do not buy a dog until you have a fence for him outside where he can be safe from :
• Teasing by small children • Dognappers • Stray dogs • Mishaps on the road
Dogs which are tied become defensive, bored and irritably aggressive. A fence is convenient, durable and safe.

6. Enlist the help of your child in the training of the dog. It will increase his sense of self importance, his concern and knowledge of animal behavior. "If Max wakes up, take him outside right away so he won't make a mistake in the house. You watch, Billy, in case I don't notice, okay?"

7. Do insist that neighborhood children who come to play abide by the same rules that you expect of your own. "Stuart, we don't hit Max with sticks. Here, throw it for him instead. Look how happy he is now! I think he likes you." If Stuart delivers a sly kick instead, stop him. (A little knowledge of gentle collar control is useful with children, as well as dogs). Put the dog in his run or crate and see to it that Stuart leaves him alone. If Stuart is uncooperative, send him home, nicely but firmly. If you get angry, he will be angry and defiant too. When he learns that he simply cannot play at your house if he continues, he will probably stop if he feels that you basically like him and that it is only his specific action that you dislike. Here again, take two minutes to give the child and the dog something constructive to do. Let the child have the opportunity to receive a warm response from the dog and he may become your staunchest ally. "Hey Mrs Jones!, I just saw Max down the street. Someone must have left the gate open."

8. Do teach the dog to sit before he is given food or a treat, and to wait for an okay to take it. The Bullmastiff pup will grow quicker than your toddler. If the sit stay becomes automatic, you will find him sitting before a baby with food, hoping but never touching. Parents of visiting children are less than understanding when your 75 lbs pup grabs for a cookie and their child goes tumbling. Many fears of dogs are traced back to just such an incident. They will not only remember that it was a large dog but also that it was a Bullmastiff. Never allow a small child to take the pup's food or bone as this could create a problem later when the pup has grown into adulthood.

9. Do give your Bullmastiff simple obedience training so that he will be spared random scoldings and confusion. "DOWN" and "SIT" are pleasant commands to a pup if they are rewarded with a brushing or a tummy rub by their young master.

10. Don't expect the dog to be patient with your child unless you have taught him to be. He will learn not to defend himself, if he realizes that you consistently rescue him before he gets hurt. Conversely you must teach the small child to be patient with the dog. Don't reinforce his fears if he inadvertently takes a tumble by telling him what a big, mean, naughty dog that is. Be matter of fact, pick him up, staunch the blood, and say, "Here, help me teach Max to be more gentle." Help the child learn to cope with the situation, reinforce his confidence with small things that he can handle, and be there to handle a situation that proves to be more that he can control.

11. Do not expose an innocent passerby to your dogs protective tendencies. Do not leave your Bullmastiff and your small child outside a store and expect them to take care of each other. Some well intentioned stranger may be bitten. Even though your dog may do exactly what you wish him to do under different circumstances, he will be the one put down while you face an expensive lawsuit. Never assume that the public understands dog behavior. The fool who puts his hands inside your car or the boy who pokes at the dog through a fence, obviously do not, but you may end up paying the doctors bills.

12. Do increase your childs sense of responsibility and pride of achievement by letting him help as much as he can. Do not expect him to know what to do. Guide him. "Here is Max's dish, Billy, tell him to come. That's it, now tell him to sit." (You help max sit. He is just learning that he must also obey Billy too.) "Good, now put the dish down. Tell him okay. There, see how nicely he obeyed you!" Billy will leave with the distinct impression that he is the worlds smartest dog trainer and that his dog is the smartest dog on the block.

The Public and Private Image of the Bullmastiff

(Author Unknown)

How is the public image of the Bullmastiff formed? By you and your dog at home, when the meter man comes to the door; when you travel; when you are invited to the home of friends; when he is left in the car while you shop; when you walk along a crowded street; when the neighbours child trips over him in the doorway; when he soils the neighbours lawn or chases his cat.

Much as we wish the public were soundly and correctly educated on the subject of dogs and dog behaviour, it is not. Individuals usually form their own opinion of an entire breed on the basis of an encounter with one or two specimens.

Will it be a bad image? " That big brute lunged at my Charlie just the other day! (It doesn't really matter whether Charlie is a Toy Poodle or a small child!). "I think that we ought to get together and make them get rid of that dog".

Or will it be a good image? "You know that big Bullmastiff next door? I didn't even know what it was until the guy told me. Well last week we woke up one night because the dog was really barking. My wife nudges me and says, `Ed, you'd better go downstairs and take a look around. I thought it was ridiculous, I mean it was probably a cat and it was also the middle of the night., but I got up and went down. And you know, the police caught a guy practically right between our houses about twenty minutes later. If that dog hadn't barked , I never would have known it until he was inside. Nice dog to have around. You can go right up to him too.

What image do you and your Bullmastiff present to the general public? We all have the responsibility to keep our dogs on our own property; to keep them on leash, or under control on the street; to prevent damage to the person or property of others and soon. We take this for granted. But remember that the Bullmastiff is conspicuous. No one worries about the Pomeranian down the street, that runs loose. However if the neighbours dog picks a fight with your dog, you can be certain that rightly or wrongly, your Bullmastiff will be blamed. He is large and powerful; and he does have a way of confronting people with a sober stare that makes then recollect their sins.

What do you do? You and your dog build a sound,sensible reputation in your community. You keep him securely at home; away from potential dognappers, away from the neighbours garbage cans, cat and flower beds, away from teasing children and car wheels. He remains in your home and on your property, where he can be a companion and protection for you.

When your dog goes out with you, he is always under calm,confident control; he appears eager and enthusiastic to work; he greets properly introduced strangers politely; he is a healthy, well groomed representative of generations of Bullmastiff breeding. And then when your neighbours complains to others that his dog was injured or whatever, he will hear " oh, it couldn't have been his dog that did it. He is never allowed to run, and besides Iv'e met him. He's is the nicest, most well behaved dog that you have ever seen.

While you study your dog in those situations, study yourself. What is your basic attitude towards your dog? Aloof or affectionate?, Reserved or exuberant? Patient or inpatient? Firm or permissive? What are your physical and emotional strengths and limitations?

When you have laid a foundation of perspective and understanding, you are ready to build a working relationship. Training can be classified in two ways: intentional and unintentional. Intentional training is practised at formal obedience classes and at home; ie: putting on a leash, practising specific commands and responses. Unintentional training includes all the things that you have taught your dog without realizing it, ie: to recognize your moods, to interpret unconscious gestures and changes in voice tone, to respond positively or negatively. He probably knows these moods and gestures better than you do yourself. His security depends on it.

Intentional training in most cases averages ten or fifteen minutes a day on leash, and an hour a week in formal training class. Unintentional training goes on 24 hrs a day. The unintentional training, the attitude you demonstrate toward your dog all the time, not just on lead practising set routines, will make or break the intentional training you give him.

Successful training will depend on your ability to train yourself to be calm, firm, consistent and persistent. Everytime you tell your dog to sit, no matter what else distracts you or him, you must see that he sits...calmly and firmly and always with praise, no matter how much of a struggle it was. Everytime you call him, you must be in a position to enforce it, calmly pleasantly and with much praise.You must never command him to come and then punish him and so on. Consistency is the key to success.

The working relationship with your dog should be based upon mutual respect, understanding and perspective. A dog is a dog; he thinks, acts and learns like a dog. He learns through cause and effect, contrasted pleasure and displeasure and constant repetition. What is your leverage as his trainer?

His desire to please you. Motivation is the key. Motivate him positively and consistently and he will become respondent and obedient.

Many people hesitate to obedience train their dogs because they associate discipline with harsh and vindictive punishment. It is true that some dogs can be forced to carry out commands through fear of punishment. Generally speaking however this is not the way to gain your dogs trust and loyalty.

Proper discipline is the establishment of guidelines, Boundaries which encompass a range of acceptable behaviour patterns for your dog. Correction should always be appropriate to the mistake; a flip of the lease when he lags behind; a sharp no nonsense jerk if he lunges at the dog next to him. Save the crack across the muzzle for the really serious things such as unwarranted fighting, chasing cars etc. Harsh corrections in most cases only confuse and panic the dog so that he is no longer capable of learning from the situation.

Remember that if the dog makes a mistake, nine times out of ten, t will be because you have not indicated properly and consistently what you want him to do. You may have to show him ten, twenty or thirty times before he understands. Correction is only a preliminary step in the training process. Real training begins when you show him what to do: i.e.,when you substitute a correct behaviour pattern for an incorrect one.

The best trainers are habitually observant people,constantly aware of reaction and response between themselves and their dogs. For the most part,they are calm and unexcitable when confronted with unpredictable behaviour and confident in their ability to control the dog and also confident in the dogs potential to understand if correctly approached.

Unique breed characteristics need to be taken into consideration.Though playful enough as a puppy, the Bullmastiff often takes a rather serious, somber attitude toward training as he matures. He likes to work and concentrates hard on a new exercise for a given interval. However once he learns it, he will quickly become bored and lackadaisical if the excersise is not applied in a variety of utilitarian ways. Be certain, when you train your Bullmastiff, that what you may interpret as stubbornness is not really boredom.

The only way to build a complete working relationship is to clearly define your training objectives and to study your dog and yourself in order to adapt your training program to your specific strengths and limitations, to gain the respect and understanding of your dog by following through in both the intentional and unintentional training that you give him. Be innovative enough with your training to give him a raison d'etre. The entire focus of his life should be to go with you, be with you and work with you. If he fails to learn, it is not because he lacks the intelligence, but because you have failed to teach him.

The life of a properly trained dog is filled with purpose. He is confident and relaxed because he lives within a framework of consistent guidelines. He reacts positively to new situations because his owner has taken care to expose him to a variety of experiences and to build his confidence through a series of positive responses. He receives more approval and praise than corrections, because good behaviour patterns have been instilled before bad one could form.

Once the working relationship has been established, it will never be forgotten.Though you and your dog may be separated for many years, he will remember and respond with his last conscious breath when he turns toward your hand and his eyes ask "WAS THE JOB WELL DONE?".

The Limping Mastiff
(Or When to Take Your Dog to the Veterinarian)

By Robin M. Smith, DVM

One of the main areas I get call regarding mastiffs is in the orthopedic department. The pups are growing just fine and then they start to limp. People want to know when they need to be concerned enough to take the dog to the veterinarian. I cannot say I have a magical time to take your dog to the veterinarian but I can try and describe some common problems with mastiff puppies that I think all should be aware of as conditions that can affect your mastiffs.

Developmental orthopedic conditions are a common cause of lameness in our mastiff puppies, unfortunately. Many of the cases have actually been present for several weeks, but the signs have just been so subtle. There are familial, nutritional and inherited components to many of these conditions. In the following paragraphs, I will try to explain some of these conditions to you and when you need to see the doctor.

Osteochondrosis

Osteochondrosis is a developmental orthopedic condition in which a disturbance in the normal process of bone development results in thickening or retention of the articular cartilage on the end of the bone. The long bones are the most frequently affected. This thickened cartilage is prone to breaking off and if a cartilage flap develops, inflammation and degenerative joint disease may result and this condition is what is referred to as Osteochondritis dissecans.

Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) occurs most frequently in rapidly growing, male, large and giant breed dogs. Genetic, nutritional, hormonal, and traumatic factors have all been implicated in the process. The most common sites of occurrence are the hock, stifle, elbow and shoulder joint.

In the hock, affected animals often develop clinical lameness by four or five months old. Most dogs display consistent weight-bearing lameness or intermittent non-weight bearing lameness. The affected hock can be swollen and painful. The diagnosis can be made by radiographing the joint.

In the stifle, OCD occurs infrequently. The affected dogs may become lame as early as three months of age.

In the elbow, there are three conditions that can occur: ununited anconeal process, osteochondrosis, and fragmented coronoid process.

In the shoulder joint, the story is a little different. Dogs usually do not show clinical lameness until six months of age or older. They may initially have mild, intermittent weight-bearing lameness but can progress to intermittent non-weight bearing lameness. In severely affected dogs, the shoulder muscles will atrophy. Movement of the shoulder joint can be very painful.

The diagnosis of OCD is confirmed by radiographs. There are certain locations of the various bones where these lesions are seen; therefore the veterinarian has to be familiar with the correct positioning of the dog to be sure to see the lesions. Once diagnosed, surgery can correct the problem or at least alleviate the pain involved.

The most common question I get about OCD is if it is inherited. As stated before, this disease is multifactorial, being due to nutrition, trauma, and hereditary causes. There is only one European paper in the literature that supports OCD being totally hereditary. Most other sources may suggest it is hereditary but cannot document for sure.

Panosteitis

Panosteitis is an acquired inflammatory condition of unknown cause that affects the long bones of large and giant breed dogs. It affects males more than females, is often cyclic or recurrent, and typically it is a shifting leg lameness. Lameness may be accompanied by lethargy, fever, and loss of appetite. Pain is elicited when pressure is applied to the affected region. This condition can also be diagnosed by radiology. It shows up as a hazy appearance on the inside of the bones.

Most of the time, all that is needed to get the dog through this condition is strict confinement and aspirin therapy twice a day. The dog WILL outgrow this.

Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy

This is a developmental disease of unknown cause that primarily affects young, rapidly growing large and giant breed dogs. A genetic basis for the disease has not been established.

Clinical signs may develop between two months of age and the time of growth plate closure but typically manifest between two and four months of age.

This condition is easily diagnosed by radiology.

Ununited Anconeal Process

UAP occurs in large and giant breed dogs. The clinical abnormalities result from progressive degenerative joint disease. Affected animals may exhibit lameness as early as four months. The lameness is intermittent and may be exacerbated by exercise or prolonged rest. Affected dogs may sit or stand with the carpus (wrist) in a valgus position (bowing outward).

The diagnosis is confirmed by radiology. The fusion of the anconeal process may not be done until 16 - 24 weeks of age, so a diagnosis of UAP should not be made before 24 weeks of age.

Fragmented Coronoid Process

This condition affects the large and giant breed dogs also. The cause of the condition is still controversial. A hereditary basis for this condition has been suggested.

Clinical signs are rarely noted before five months of age. They will develop. There will be lameness that is made worse by exercise or prolonged rest.

A fragmented coronoid process is rarely identified radiographically because of the superimposition of the opposite coronoid process.

Hip Dysplasia

Hip dysplasia is the most common developmental orthopedic condition that affects dogs. It is influenced by genetics, environmental and hormonal factors.

Some dogs may have an acute onset of hind limb and hip pain, but most dogs have more subtle clinical signs.

I am a proponent of nutrition being one of the causative factors of these disorders. I am a strong advocate of getting your puppy off the puppy food onto an adult dog food IF they are having problems, but not before. Another factor that is important is the flooring these puppies are on when young. It should be a good floor, which allows the dogs to have good footing.

So, now what? What do I do if my puppy starts to limp? You need to ask yourself various questions, i.e. Has your pup been excessively exercising? If the answer is no... read on. If the limping just started, make sure to examine the foot of the dog to make sure there are no needles or burrs in it. I recommend confining the dogs for 2 weeks and leash walk only. I also suggest aspirin 325 mg. (5 grain) for the inflammation.

If after two weeks, the limp is still there, or if after a few days of confinement, the limping is worse, I recommend seeing a veterinarian. Don't wait more than two weeks. All of our puppies can overdo and hurt themselves very easily, so allow them time to get over an injury that could have occurred, but DO NOT WAIT TOO LONG.

I also will tell you to get the puppies off the puppy food or any high protein food or any vitamins. These puppies are growing very rapidly and we can slow this process down slightly. I recommend putting them on 21-23% adult food. And again, make sure the pups have good flooring for stability.

As you can see, unfortunately, because we love giant breed dogs, we must be very aware of these orthopedic conditions because we can try to alleviate some of the complications associated with these conditions.

If you have any specific questions on these conditions in your mastiff, or, if you want to understand the different treatments for these conditions please feel free to contact me.

Robin M. Smith, DVM
Westminster Veterinary Emergency/Trauma Center
269 W. Main St., Westminster, MD 21557
Work 410-848-3363
(Fax) 410-848-4959
E-mail: RocknRob56@aol.com

Natural Grooming Spray

In a spray water bottle (1 cup of water approx.) mix:

• Lemon
• Lavender
• Peppermint
• Tea Tree (if indoor shows or used as outside bug repellent)

Yard Odour Recipe

Spray as needed to keep down smell and bugs.
Here are the products and the quantities:

• 1 qt water
• 1 cup lemon scented ammonia
• 1 cup lemon scented dish soap
• 1capful mint flavored mouthwash

The Gamekeeper's Night Dog
(Reproduced without permission, as taken from another site without written permission)

By David Hancock (U.K.)

"The latter tried bravely to hold his own, but was floored every time he got to his feet, ultimately being kept to the ground until the owner of the dog released him. the man had three rounds with the powerful canine, but was beaten each time and was unable to escape."

This fascinating cameo of a man vs. dog contest appeared in The Field on August 20, 1901. With poaching (especially deer poaching) on the increase again, with human staff costing so much nowadays, and the law of the land almost favoring trespassers--especially those apprehended as poachers who plead "trespass" as their only offense--it is suprising that the "gamekeepers night dog" isn't more widely used.

The "night dog" referred to is of course the Bullmastiff, the only British breed ever specifically produced for guard duties and from two of the oldest, purest and bravest breeds. Technically created in modem times, it existed for centuries in the form of the lighter Mastiff when used as a hunting dog, and then the bigger, faster Bulldog when used for bull-baiting. It can be argued that the Bullmastiff is a truer descendant of the original Bulldog than the modem breed of that very name.

Not recognized by the Kennel Club as a breed until 1924--but used previously by gamekeepers--these dogs have the Mastiff instinct to pin their quarry rather than to bite, and to attack a man and throw him to the ground every time he tries to get to his feet--without ever using their teeth to savage him.

Mr. S.Moseley, from his Farcroft kennels, stabilized the modern breed after many previous trial crosses of Bulldog and Mastiff. There are similarities with the French equivalent, the Dogue De Bordeaux and the Neapolitan Mastiff, indicating a breed type in history, perhaps together with the Brazilian Guard Dog, The Tosa--The Japanese Fighting Dog--and the new extinct German Bullenbeisser.

What was being sought was a "gamekeepers dog". Just as the poacher needed his "Lurcher" to locate, chase, kill and retrieve game silently and slickly, so the game-keeper required a powerful, well-disciplined dog to find, seize and detain the poacher. This was not a task for a light, nervous, noisy, fidgety, ill-disciplined dog, but for the strong, silent type, able on command to knock down then hold down a young, healthy countryman, possibly after tracking him or quietly observing his acting illegally.

The requirement decided, the end product was then designed for the purpose in mind. Undoubtedly, more than two components were involved, the Great Dane and the yellow Labrador type of gun dog, which was beginning to emerge about that time, being likely ingredients. But in essence it was a cross between the Bulldog--tough, tenacious, fuss less, brave and with silent self-reliance- and the Mastiff--immensely powerful, trustworthy, fearsome in appearance but stable by nature, loyal and brave, which produced the Bullmastiff--27 inches at the withers, some ten stones of muscular guard dog.

From these carefully selected ancestors -- specifically purpose bred -- came a strapping, fearless, superbly proportioned, imposing-looking animal, combining the massiveness and sheer pugnacity of appearance of the age-old beautifully natured Mastiff breed, with the famed courage and proven endurance of the renowned Bulldog.

These two famous breeds gave the modern Bullmastiff three priceless qualities, ideal in combination for a guard dog; superb temperament --even tempered, level headed, magnanimous and never excitable; a silent, steadfast, almost arrogant bearing; and most importantly, the instinct to pin the quarry rather than to bite. The powerful Bullmastiff doesn’t savage its target or "worry" the arm of the standing "wanted" man. He has all the necessary strength to use his inherited impulse to pin his victim to the floor or a wall. But before the action even begins, there is the considerable deterrent value of the Bullmastiffs sheer physical size, pugnacious, black masked face and his impressive, almost regally impassive composure. He really looks the part.

Capable of quite astounding speed off the mark, immensely strong and --although large and heavy-- an essentially active dog, the Bullmastiff has superb self-reliance. He stands as if he owns the ground he stands on, looks you in the eye as an equal and yields to no one. Don't expect subservience from this breed. However, gain the confidence of one, together with his respect, and you have the best guard-companion of all dogs.

Not to be chained up in the backyard or confined to a small run, the Bullmastiff must be made a member of the household and ideally taken to a training class to get used to other dogs. Well-trained from young puppyhood, they are the most trustworthy. With his keen hard expression and well-arched neck, a young Bullmastiff is very proud and full of himself. This admirable self-assurance has to be utilized to good effect by firm, consistent training so that he becomes equally proud of his self restraint.

This formidable dog is well-behaved with children, never loses his temper and tolerates endless teasing. He is responsive to training, intelligent and faithful by nature. Used as a guard dog in such widely separated situations as the Mau-Mau emergency in Kenya, in the Kimberley diamond mines in South Africa, and on John D. Rockefeller's huge country estate in New York State, the Bullmastiff is now used mainly by discerning private owners as companion/guard.

The Bullmastiff doesn’t snap or nip and seldom barks. He can track as well as guard, is easy to train and control, and tolerates -- perhaps more than any other breed -- children. On duty, he does not savage his prey but silently and effectively detains it. That great, powerful head with the ferocious, scowling, black mask and the lasting impression of physical power, make the Bullmastiff a formidable, commanding figure for any wrongdoer to confront.

A loyal, faithful, even-tempered, noble breed, Bullmastiffs make superb companion-guards and do not have that restless energy which demands a vast amount of exercise.

When all is said and done about the various breeds available as guard dogs, the Bullmastiff is the professional. He was bred for the part. After all, who would employ a shepherd as a night watchman when a security guard is available? And which would you prefer to be guarded by, a lion or a wolf? The Bullmastiff is the lion of the dog world. He is massive, arrogant, powerful and brave--a truly underrated, undervalued king among dogs.

Color in the Bullmastiff
(Printed without permission)

By: B. G. Wilton

"Any shade of fawn, red or brindle" as the standard allows, needs some qualification if practical comprehension of the Bullmastiff's color scheme is to be realized. Basic related shades noted below, most nearly identify Bullmastiff colors. With most desirable pigmentation, markings and overtones will be darker than the basic shade, reflect on the breeding, and are a signpost to the breeder. Color develops from the parents - a one step generation proposition; with pigmentation, markings, ect. further influenced by the grandparents and preceding generations. A pup of specifically different basic color than its parents, or the combination implied by the color of it's parents, is considered a throwback. Such a situation is rare indeed in sound breeding. Any frequency calls for serious investigation of one's stock lines; moreover, regardless of conformation of such an offspring, registration is another matter.

Applicable to the Bullmastiff spectrum are jonquil, geranium, wheat, apricot, golden, orange, cherry, buff, ruby, cardinal, henna and chesnut. Basic fawn is wheat or apricot. Red is cardinal or henna. Brindle is black, at least 50% preferred, combined with one other of the spectrum, but not white - may be almost black. 

Fawn pups at birth are various shades of grey yet light and dark fawns may be readily noted for future reference. Reds have an unmistakeable brown appearance for the most part. In a few months the true color will begin to establish. Pigmentation will manifest in profuse amounts of black on face, back, brisket and tip of tail. Over about a year's time most of the black will blend away into the normal colors, leaving only black muzzle and mask and an inch or two of the tail, also the ears will usually be quite dark. The basic color may be light at first, gradually darkening up through the second year or later. Overtones on the back and head may take on a golden, orange or buckwheat tint, usually admireable.
On the red, overtones may be less distinct, but merely slightly darker than the base shade. Eyes also gradually darken right up through the third year in most cases. Reds on the average are not noted for profuse black masks, but in reality have little or no excuse for noticeable sparsity. The black mask and muzzle are endowed by nature for obvious purpose, but we might concede that the darker colored dog needs it less for night protection than the fawn. This might again have some bearing on eye color where presumably a yellow eye might expose the dog in the dark. Be that as it may, light or dark, good eyesight is most essential to the working Bullmastiff.

Most pups are born with a white marking on the chest, which may vary in size and shape, occasionally spreading to the pits of the forelegs, but should not run up to the throat. Some may also have occasional white toes, also not uncommon is a small white spot under the chin. In the normal sense there is no fault implied as there will be little left of it to identify aside from the chest spot once the pup has grown. There should be not white on the head, back, sides or tail, but to some breeders comes the odd one with a diminutive patch of white where it shouldn't be. In some cases this might be calculated to dissipate within a few months, but not more than one year, but one must deliberate carefully and wait to be sure, if considering the pup otherwise show worthy. Of course white on the head or body of a grown dog is a major fault, and if covering considearable area subject to disqualification on sight. In few words, a poorly colored or marked dog advertises inconsistencies in his breeding, to the experienced eye.

The brindle nowadays is getting the recognition it sadly lacked a few years ago. In the early days of the breed, in England, brindles were fairly common, but then lapsed into the minority. This meant few lines to breed to of brindle stock and one had the alternative of close inbreeding or breeding to reds and fawns. When a brindle is bred to respectable red or fawn, which is without substantial brindle in its background, the color division in the resulting litter rarely favors the brindle proportionately. Under such conditions the odds are that the outstanding specimens in the litter will favor the color of the non-brindle parent. This might suggest a reason why there have been so few brindle champions to date. It is not a weakness one might suppose, as several fine brindles repose far back in the pedigrees of some of our finest red and fawn stock, and on occasion continue to beget excellent offspring. As with other colors there must be at least one brindle parent to produce brindles. The best road leading up to stability of prospects may not be well paved for the hobbyist unable to maintain companion lines in his establishment, nevertheless, there is still a field in brindles for those with interest and patient to develop them.

Bringing up a Bullmastiff Puppy
(Printed with permission)

By: Mona Lindau-Webb Ph. D.

(Little excerpt from me here, please if you are thinking of buying or owning a Bullmastiff, purchase this book and read it before you get your puppy. The cost is low and the rewards and things you learn are priceless, in my opinion. Mona gives clear and concise thoughts and idea on behavior, raising and training aspects of owning a Bullmastiff. These is many eye opening and educating ideas from her book and listed below is the way to contact her to purchase her book at the low cost of $10.00 US.)

"In order to influence and adjust a dog's mind, it is useful to find out what is in it. Of course, we can never really know what is in a dog's mind. We can however, study the dog's behavior, describe the behavior and make educated guesses as to what is going on in the dog's mind.When we want to get into the mind of the Bullmastiff, we are not so much interested in the characteristics that are part of being a dog in general, but the traits that are unique to the breed."

"The British standard describes the breed characteristics as "powerful, enduring, active and reliable", the temperament as "high-spirited, alert and faithful". In the American standard the temperament is defined as "fearless and confident yet docile". The dog combines the reliability, intelligence and willingness to please required in a dependable family companion and protector".

"In the books about Bullmastiffs, the writers describe the personality of the Bullmastiff in terms like "noble", "commanding", "steady", "stable", "affectionate", "responsive", "devoted", "loyal", "loving and friendly", "discriminating", "possessive", "strong willed", "sedate as a caretaker", alert as a protector", "docile until challenged", "tolerant of kids", "lacking in excitability". The breed is said to have a "deep desire for human companionship", and it is also described as "wanting to control"."

"The Bullmastiff is certainly powerful, both physically and mentally. The main characteristic of the breed is their strong will and desire to control, in combination with their loyalty, affection, and desire for human companionship. A lot of their attraction lies in the love and affection a Bullmastiff can give and the deep bonding that occurs between the owner and the dog."

This is just a little excerpt from her section on the personality that I think covers the personality as she says in her little book, she goes on to describe the Bullmastiff as a guard dog (and yes it is, so don't let that cute adorable face fool you and be a head of the game, remember you can never know too much but can certainly know too little and there is the very real possibility that not only you and your dog will suffer from your lack of knowledge), the Bullmastiff as a people dog, consequences of owning a family protector, puppy training, (what is nice here is she covers the different stages by age and development), diet and health care, picking a puppy, puppy shopping list, first night in your home. (A lot to cover but it is done quickly without a lot of fill in take up space and it is acurate.)

This booklet can be purchased through:

Alpha Dog Training - Mona Lindau-Webb
1943 S. Holt Ave., Los Angeles, CA, USA, 90034
(310)559-2321

The True Cost of that Doggie in the Window

By: Charlene Vickers

Pet store puppies are so appealing! They play with each other so sweetly, they look out the window at you with those big puppy eyes, and they are just so cuddly that you can't resist. Sadly, that sweet little ball of fur will cost you far, far more - in money, time and emotional pain - than you could ever bargain for.

It's important to realize that the pet store is counting on you impulsively falling in love with a little puppy based on the dog's looks and puppy behaviour alone. Since all puppies are cute, and all puppies exhibit certain behaviours which we find endearing, you, the educated buyer, have to look beyond these characteristics in choosing the perfect companion pet. Remember, the dog will be part of your family for up to 15 years, and a puppy is cute only for maybe three or four months. Also, what's endearing behaviour in a four-pound puppy may be destructive and aggressive behaviour in a ninety-pound adolescent dog.

Pet store dogs are born, raised and handled in the least expensive way possible. The store, the middleman (if one), and the breeder are only out for one thing - profit. They don't care about the dogs' eventual health, happiness, or suitability; they only care about the money they get from every sale. That's partially why pet store dogs cost so much more to start out with than a well-bred dog from a responsible breeder.

So what characteristics should you be looking for when selecting a puppy? The most important one is health. A healthy dog is a happy dog, and a happy dog is more easily trained, is gentler with all family members, and lives longer. There's nothing more heartbreaking than to have a beloved pet die before its time, or to have to put down a pet because of aggression or fear-biting. This can be avoided by choosing the right puppy from the right breeder - but not by buying a puppy from a pet store.

A puppy may bring home an infectious disease - a small pup can catch any number of diseases, especially if its immune system is suppressed for any reason - but the main thing a prospective puppy buyer has to watch out for is genetic disease. Every dog breed and every type of mutt is susceptible to some form of genetic disease. These diseases include hip dysplasia, von Willibrandt's disease, a whole host of eye conditions, inherited susceptibility to certain types of cancer, deafness, blindness, cataracts, floating kneecaps, and rare but fatal diseases such as Krabbe's Disease. Each breed has specific problems which affect not just puppies of that specific breed but also mutt puppies that are partly descended from the breed. Puppies also inherit their temperaments from their parents in a far greater degree than do humans.

The necessary genetic and temperament tests, which have to be conducted not just on the mother of the puppies but on the father, the grandparents, and the great-grandparents, cost an enormous amount of money. In fact, the breeder who is willing to conduct these tests will almost certainly lose money on the breeding. Why, then, would he breed? A responsible breeder, one who conducts all necessary genetic and other tests on his breeding dogs, is generally looking to better his breed. His bitch (a legitimate word for a female dog) will normally have been shown and will also have been put through agility and obedience training. She may even have gone through field training if she is of a working breed. He will choose for the stud the dog that best suits his bitch at the time - which may mean that he has to ship his bitch two thousand miles to be bred. He will make sure that the stud he chooses is healthy and carries no genetic or other diseases. Needless to say, he will also make sure that every dog that his bitch whelps has a good, permanent home. None of these puppies will ever make it to the pet store - responsible breeders make sure their puppies go to loving, responsible families, and they can't be sure of that if their pups are sold like VCRs in a shopping mall

So where do pet store puppies come from? It's a sad story. Most pet store puppies come from puppy mills. These may be the hellpits we see on Hard Copy and other programs, where female dogs whelp in dark, filthy cages, live amongst the bodies of dead, rotting puppies, and are bred indiscriminately (and the puppies' registration papers forged). Or they may be clean commercial operations where the mother is given a proper whelping box and only one stud is allowed to mate with the bitch, so the parentage is known. But in either case, the reason for breeding is identical: profit. The puppy miller is only in the business of breeding dogs to make money. He doesn't care - he can't afford to care - about the eventual genetic health of the dogs he breeds. He doesn't do temperament testing to make sure only sweet, non-aggressive dogs breed. He doesn't conduct genetic testing to make sure only healthy dogs breed. He can't afford to. The profit margin of a puppy mill is small, so every economy must be taken. And the biggest economy is in health testing.

When you buy a dog from a pet store, it's quite likely that the dog will be affected by some inherited health problem somewhere down the road. Since neither mother or father were given the necessary tests, you have no proof that they were healthy. Since you can't visit them and observe their temperament, you have no proof that they aren't aggressive or, even worse, fearful to the point of not being able to interact with humans.

It's important, too, to realize that pet store dogs, because they're surrounded by other dogs that come from other puppy mills, are far more likely to contract an infectious disease than a dog from a responsible breeder. Many pet stores won't take back a dog even if it's deathly ill two hours after you get it. A responsible breeder will always be concerned with his puppies' health, and is far less likely to sell a sick dog.

Socialization

Dogs have been bred for thousands of years to be helpmates and companions to humans. You may think, therefore, that a dog somehow instinctively knows that it was born to live with humans. That's not the case, however. Dogs are pack animals, as you probably know, and in the wild only accept other dogs as members of the pack. A dog has to be taught to accept humans as pack members. This teaching has to occur while the dog is still a young puppy, and in most pups this training has to occur between the ages of 2 weeks and 8 weeks. If a dog loses out on constant human companionship between those ages, the dog may never be able to accept living with a human. It may always be fearful, shy and even aggressive toward humans of any age.

A little six-week-old puppy may be interested in smelling your hand or even licking your face simply because you are a new sensation. That doesn't mean, however, that it will continue to accept you. Once it's home, it might begin to show fear every time you approach it, every time the doorbell rings, every time someone new comes in the door, or every time the radio goes on. I mentioned above that fear can be an inherited characteristic, and it can; but an improperly socialized puppy, one that was isolated from human and dog companionship at a crucial time in its life, will also become a fearful, terror-filled dog - and may even resort to aggressive behaviour in order to protect itself from what it thinks are threats to its existence.

A responsible breeder will start helping the mother dog to "socialize" her puppies soon after birth. The puppies must get used to noise, other dogs, cats, different sorts of people, the TV, the radio, cars, the vet, and anything else the breeder can think of. They must learn that they are dogs, not humans, cats or anything else. They must learn how to interact with other dogs. All this work, all this learning, has to be complete by the time the puppy leaves its mother. This is why the responsible breeder never, never lets a puppy leave its mama before the age of eight weeks. There's so much to learn, and so little time to learn it, that every day is precious. The most important part of this socialization, as you may have guessed, is teaching the puppies to accept humans as part of their pack.

So what happens to the pet store puppy? The dogs are isolated from humans from the very first day. The breeder can't afford to pay people to play with 100 or more little puppies every day, and he probably doesn't even want to do it himself. After all, he's not in it for the love of dogs, he's in it for profit.

The breeder also doesn't want to have to feed the puppies, because food costs money. Immediately upon weaning, at age 3 or 4 weeks, the pups are shipped to the stores. They're crated, usually one or two to a small crate, and they stay in those crates for up to a week. They're watered and fed, but given no companionship or love. Once they arrive at the pet store, the survivors (yes, survivors - see below) are shoved in cages and maybe given a few minutes every day to play with a human. Although at that age they will play with a human, this does not give the puppy enough contact with humans that it learns to eventually accept them as members of its pack.

At six weeks the puppy is sold and goes to its new family. For the very first time, it's surrounded by new sensations, new noises, and these large beings who pick it up, yell at it, throw it around and generally scare the bejesus out of it. Sadly, the puppy may simply not know how to deal with people. It doesn't have the training to know that it's OK to accept these beings as members of the pack. All it thinks is that these large beings are threatening it, scaring it, and for all it knows trying to attack it. So the puppy responds in the only ways it can; it may ignore the beings at first and let them play and torment it, but eventually it runs away and hides, or even tries to defend itself with claws and teeth. Such behaviour is unacceptable and may be unalterable even after expensive professional training.

The problem by this time is, even though the puppy hasn't bonded with the family, the family may have bonded with the puppy. Imagine the dilemma the parent faces in telling the child that its special little puppy may have to be put down! Imagine what the child thinks - if the puppy can be put down for bad behaviour, what about me? Imagine how heartbroken the entire family will be when it has to put down or give away what it thought would be a permanent member of the home. Is it really worth putting your family through that kind of pain, just because the pet store puppy is so cute - and the store takes Visa?

Cleanliness

I don't know how many first-time dog owners have written either to me, to newsgroups I frequent, or to mailing lists I subscribe to, complaining that their dog has been in the home for THREE WHOLE DAYS and still it's not 100% housetrained! It's true that most of the time housetraining problems are caused by the owners' bad training methods or incredible impatience. Sometimes, sadly, the little pet store dog is also to blame. Why? Because the pet store puppy was never taught as a wee pup not to foul its own nest.

A responsible breeder provides his pregnant bitch with a large, clean, comfortable whelping box. The box is a little larger than the mother needs it to be for giving birth, because the mother will eventually need a place for the puppies to eliminate. For the first three weeks, the mother feeds the puppies and eats any refuse they produce. Yes, this seems disgusting to us, but it's nature's way. The puppies get used to living in a clean environment from the very first day. After the puppies grow large enough to be able to know when they're about to go, the mother forces them to pee or poo in the unoccupied part of the whelping box - which is cleaned by the breeder. This strengthens the puppies' instinctive behaviour not to foul the nest. The puppies get used to this cleanliness and, when they go to their new homes and are crate trained, the new owner can use their puppy's instincts to train it to hold its urine and feces until it's appropriate to eliminate.

And a pet store puppy? Remember, the little puppies are taken away from their mothers at age three weeks. That means that the puppies have received no training from their mothers in keeping their nest clean. If the pups were raised in a horrible filthy puppy mill, there's a chance the mother was too, and she has no instinct to keep her whelping area clean. The puppies might have been born and raised in total filth. Even if the puppies were kept in a clean commercial whelping den, the puppies can't have learned cleanliness by that early age.

The pups are then crated and shipped to the pet store. This is to me the most disgusting part of the whole pet store syndrome. The crates are often stacked six or seven high in the trucks. (Yes, that means that the upper puppies poop and pee all over the lower puppies. It's not unusual, apparently, for the puppies in the lowest layer to *drown* in the feces and urine produced by the puppies above them.) The surviving puppies are cleaned up, prettified by the pet store staff, and put in the window to tug at your heartstrings. But look under the puppy - what's that? Shredded paper, that absorbs all the dog's pee? Crating, that allows the poo and pee to drain away? When does the puppy learn that it's uncomfortable to pee or poo right where it sits? When does the puppy learn that it's not appropriate to pee and poo anywhere it wants? The answer is, it doesn't.

Now some people have successfully housetrained their pet store dogs, but it takes a lot of patience, persistence and love. It also takes someone who has trained a dog before, and who knows that a dog needs praise, not punishment, to learn how to be housetrained. Sadly, many puppies from pet stores are never completely housetrained. Their owners become frustrated, angry, even violent towards the little dogs, and all too often the pups end up victims of abuse. They also end up on Death Row at the pound.

Breed

Many people buy a cute tiny little pet store puppy on impulse, without thinking about the dog that the puppy will become. Perhaps they think the pup will always be that size? Perhaps they don't think at all. In any case, it's hard to tell what size a little mixed-breed puppy in the pet store window will turn out to be. Even a purebred puppy might turn out to be much larger or smaller than the buyer expects if its parents were too large or too small for the breed standard.

No responsible breeder will sell a puppy to a family that hasn't given a lot of thought to what breed they want and can handle. Every dog has its good points and bad points, and no one dog is perfect for every dog buyer. Goldens, which are often touted as "the perfect family pet", are not good for someone allergic to dog dander. Goldens also need a great deal of mental stimulation, and can be very rambunctious for the first few years of their lives. A Newfoundland might not be the best choice for someone living in a two-room apartment (unless one room is for the owner and one for the dog!). A family with small children may not want to bring a very small dog into the home. Some breeds need three or more hours of directed exercise such as walking, playing ball or jumping every day. Some need firm handling and extensive training. Someone who isn't able to give a dog a large amount of exercise shouldn't get a Dalmatian. Someone wanting a jogging companion could do better than a Basset Hound or a St. Bernard.

Pet stores don't care what they sell to you. In fact, the pet store staff may not even know what breed a specific dog is or what the dog's needs are. Since so many pet store dogs are bought on impulse, a lot of owners end up with dogs that are too small, too large, too active, or just plain wrong for them.

Worse, pet stores sell mutts - cockapoos, shih-poos, whatever - at highly inflated prices. These might sound like cute names, and I understand some "registry" can even provide the owner with papers - at a price; but these pups are no less mutts than the dogs at the pound. Sadly, the pet stores sell these dogs as if they were purebred - and charge you for them as if they were, too. The two differences between a cockapoo sold in a pet store and one in the pound or advertised as "free to a good home" is that the free dog costs less *and* it is probably healthier and better-trained than the pet store dog.

Think before you buy

So when is it safe to buy a dog from a pet store? Sadly, never. There are cases of pet stores advertising that their dogs were home-reared; when a consumer group checked out this claim, it was found that *one* dog out of five hundred was reared in a home. The rest came from puppy mills. Some pet stores train their staff to lie about where the dogs come from, and even to lie about the pups' age and health. Most treat their dogs like chattels. (What do you think happens to the dogs that don't get sold - do you think they "get a home in the country"? The lucky ones go to the SPCA or the vet's; many just go into the toilet bowl or the garbage can.

If you want a healthy, happy, trainable, loveable dog, run, don't walk away from your local pet store.

(c) Charlene Vickers 1997.

First Aid Kit

The first thing you need for a good first aid kit is a suitable container. We use a fishing tackle-type box. On the outside, with permanent marker, label the box "First Aid" on all sides -- in an emergency someone else might have to locate and use this kit. Tape to the inside of the box lid, a card with the following information:

• your name, address, phone#
• name & phone# of someone to contact, in an emergency, who will take care of 
• your dogs if you are incapacitated
• your dog's names and any information about any medications they take, any allergies or significant medical conditions they have
• name & phone# of your vet 

Also tape to the inside of the box lid, a card with a list of common medications, their general dosages, and the specific dose for the weights of your own dogs: For example:

• Benadryl 1-2mg per lb, every 8 hrs (65lb dog, 2-4 25mg tablets every 8 hrs)
• aspirin 5 mg per lb every 12 hrs (1 325mg tablet per 65lb dog per 12 hrs)
• hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting: 1-3 tsp every 10 min until dog vomits
• Pepto Bismol 1 tsp per 5lb per 6 hours (3-4 TBSP per 65 lb dog per 6 hrs)
• Kaopectate 1 ml per 1 lb per 2 hours (3-4 TBSP per 65 lb dog, 2 hrs)
• immodium 1 mg per 15 lbs 1-2 times daily
• mineral oil (as a laxative) 5-30 ml per day..do not use long-term

(NOTE: my dogs both weigh about 65 lb. YOURS may differ. List the actual doses needed for your OWN dog's weights. This way they are quickly and easily available and you don't have to be searching for a calculator or trying to recall from memory when your dog needs medication.) 

NEVER EVER give Tylenol (toxic to liver) or ibuprofen (Nuprin, Motrin, Advil, etc.). Ibuprofen is very toxic and fatal to dogs at low doses. Only aspirin is safe for dogs, and buffered aspirin or ascriptin is preferred to minimize stomach upset. 

Check with your vet to confirm dosages before using. If symptoms persist, consult your vet ASAP -- do NOT continue to try to treat at home, the problem might be more serious than you think! 

Give liquid medications using an oral syringe tucked into the side of the dog's mouth, holding jaws closed (rather than poking straight down the throat and risking getting liquid into the lungs). 

Its also a good idea to keep copies of your dog's vaccination records, including a copy of the Rabies Certificate, in the First Aid kit, or in a packet in your car. I keep packets with shot records, what heartworm preventative the dogs get and which day of the month it should be given, emergency contact information, and my vet's name and phone number, in EACH car, and in my dog show equipment bag. In addition the emergency contact and vet information are clearly posted on my refridgerator door at home where anyone who needs it can find the information. You never know when you may be incapacitated in an accident and your dogs may be in the hands of a complete stranger who will need this information. 

Things to put in the first Aid Kit

• cotton gauze bandage wrap - 1.5 inch width, 3 inch width 
• Vet Wrap -- 2 inch width, and 4 inch width (4 inch is sold for horses) 
• Ace bandage 
• first aid tape 
• cotton gauze pads 
• regular bandaids 
• cotton swabs or Q-tips 
• Benadryl 
• ascriptin (buffered aspirin) 
• Pepto Bismol tablets 
• New Skin liquid bandage (useful for patching abrasions on pads) 
• iodine tablets (if you hike and camp in areas where the stream water may not be safe for consumption with out first treating with iodine or boiling) 
• oral syringes (for administering liquid oral medicines, getting ear drying solution into ears, etc...very useful!) 
• needle & thread 
• safety pins in several sizes 
• razor blade (paper wrapped for protection) 
• matches 
• tweezers 
• hemostat (useful for pulling ticks, thorns, large splinters, etc)
• small blunt end scissors 
• canine rectal thermometer (get one made specifically for dogs) 
• antibiotic ointment (such as Bacitracin, Betadine, or others) 
• Eye rinsing solution (simple mild eye wash) 
• small bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide 
• small bottle of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing)
• alcohol or antiseptic wipes (in small individual packets)
• small jar of Vaseline
• specific medications YOUR dog may need (for allergies, seizures, etc.)

Also have the following around the house, and consider packing to take on out-of-town trips:

• *Ottomax (ointment for ear infections)
• *Chlorasone eye ointment (or a similar cortisone-antibiotic eye ointment)
• *Gentocin topical spray
• hydrocortisone topical spray (such as Cortaid brand)
• ear cleaning solution (Nolvasan Otic, Epi-Otic, or your favorite)
• homemade ear drying solution (1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part white vinegar, 2 parts water)
• otoscope (for examining ears)
• Epsom salts
• Hot spot remedy ingredients -- whatever your favorite hot spot remedy is, never leave home traveling with your Golden without everything you need to treat a hot spot.

Those supplies preceded by a * must be obtained from a veterinarian. All other supplies can be purchased, over the counter, at most any drug store. Several dog supply catalogs, such as Dr.s Foster & Smith, UPCO, and Omaha Vaccine, offer a variety of medical and first aid supplies.

If your dog has severe allergies to bee stings or other things that might be commonly encountered in places you take your dog, consider asking your vet about stocking your first aid kit with medication that might be needed for that sort of special emergency. Likewise, trackers and field trainers may want to consult their vet about equipping their first aid kits with specific supplies to deal with snake bites.

Be sure to clearly LABEL all medications and supplies with their name and expiration date. Be sure to replace medications that may have exceeded their recommended expiration date. Go through your kit at least once a year, replacing expired medications, replenishing used supplies, etc. We do this right before going on vacation with the dogs, so we know the kit is up-dated and complete when we are travelling and away from close veterinary care.

For good canine first aid descriptions and instuctions:

Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook
by D.G. Carlson and J.M. Giffin
Howell Book House, 1980 or more recent new edition?,
ISBN 0-87605-764-4

First Aid Kit for Bloat

(GASTRIC DILATION-VOLVULUS)

I. INTRODUCTION

    a. This presentation is for FIRST AID for a BLOAT condition.  These procedures are not intended to replace prompt, professional treatment by a qualified Veterinarian.

    b.  Canine Bloat( GASTRIC DILATION-VOLVULUS) is an acute disease or digestive problem believed to be caused by excessive swallowing of air  while eating, gastrointestinal secretions, and gas from food fermenting in the stomach.

2. BLOAT KIT

    a. Recommended Bloat kit content:

        1. Stethoscope (To check heart beat rate)

        2. Rolls of Tape (3 rolls, 1" x 10yd)

        3. Stomach tube, 5' length, beveled at one end, with two holes drilled in tube 2 & 3 inches up from the beveled end.(tygon tubing)

        4. 14 gauge or larger needles (1-1/2" - 3" length)

        5. KY Jelly

        6. Gas Absorbent (Digel, Gas Ease, etc.)

3. DETERMINING BLOAT STAGES:

        a. Color of Gums

       b. Check heartbeat/pulse rate

        c.  Note abdomen distention

4. RECOMMENDED ACTIONS:

       a. Attempt to determine the bloat stage he may be in.

      b. Call your veterinarian, discuss symptoms and ask for guidance.

      c. If you conclude your dog is in stage 1 bloat and you can reach your vet within 30 minutes, GO DIRECTLY TO YOUR VET!

      d. If you conclude your dog is in stage 2 bloat and you cannot reach your  vet within 10 minutes, you should   attempt to insert a stomach  tube before departing for the vet.  Leave the tube inserted while transporting to the vet.

      e. If you conclude your dog is in stage 3 bloat and you cannot reach your vet  within 10 minutes, you must apply first aid immediately. Attempt to pass a  stomach tube.  If you unsuccessful with the stomach tube, you should use Thocharization procedures to relieve gas pressure.   DEATH IS IMMINENT

5. RECOMMENDATIONS TO HELP AVOID CANINE BLOAT:

      a. Feed the dogs two or three times daily, rather than once a day, at times when someone can observe them after they have eaten.

      b. Avoid vigorous exercise, excitement and stress one hour before and 2 hours after feeding.  Walking is okay because it helps stimulate normal gastrointestinal function.

      c. Feed dogs individually and in a quiet location.

      d. Make diet changes gradually over a 3-5 day period.

      e. Ensure water is always available but limit the amount immediately after feeding.

      f.  Watch for any actions or behavior that may signal abdominal  discomfort(abdominal fullness, pacing,             salivating, whining, getting up and lying down, stretching, looking at abdomen, anxiety and unsuccessful attempts to vomit, etc.)

      g. Establish a good relationship with your Vet.  Discuss emergency procedures, preventative surgery (circumcostal, tube, incisional) and overall  medical management of your dog.

6. SUMMARY

I strongly believe properly administered first aid will help ensure a dog in a bloat condition has a good chance of survival once it gets to a properly  trained Veterinarian.

The first aid procedures listed have worked for me.  However, I cannot be responsible for anyone misunderstanding or misusing these procedures. I highly recommend everyone discuss bloat first aid procedures with their personal Veterinarians and follow their advice explicitly.      Jack Godwin,Patchwork Great Danes

Addendum:

BLOAT STAGES, SYMPTOMS AND RECOMMENDED ACTIONS

STAGE 1:     SYMPTOMS:

     1. Pacing, restless, panting, salivating.

     2. Unproductive attempts to vomit(every 10-20 Minutes)

     3. Abdomen exhibits fullness and beginning to enlarge.

    ACTIONS:

       1. Call Veterinarian to advise of bloat case inroute.  Transport dog to Vet Immediately.

STAGE 2:      SYMPTOMS:

           1.Very Restless, whining, panting continuously, heavy salivating.

         2. Unproductive attempts to vomit (every 2-3 minutes)

        3. Dark Red Gums.

        4. High heart beat rate (80-100bpm)

        5. Abdomen is enlarged and tight.  Emits hollow sound when thumped.

    ACTIONS:

         1. Apply first aid if Veterinarian is more than 10 minutes away. Then transport dog to Vet immediately.

STAGE 3:     SYMPTOMS:

        1. Gums are white or blue.

        2.Dog unable to stand or has spread-legged, shaky stance.

        3. Abdomen is very enlarged.

        4. Extremely high heart beat rate (100bpm or greater) and weak pulse.

ACTIONS:

         1. Death is imminent!  Apply first aid immediately.  Transport dog to vet  quickly ( even while applying first aid, if possible)